2008-12-19

Shimla Diary: The Mystical Co-incidences at Tara Devi

Tara Devi Railway Station
Sunday the 14th December, the first holiday in the 21 day long course was eagerly awaited. The ardent traveler in me did awake early to catch the 8:15 toy train from Summer Hill station. This journey on toy train may not have been possible due to the packed schedule. The ASC was also reported to be in a practice of organising official tours of the course on Sundays. That made it all the more mandatory to experience this ride at the first available opportunity. Thanks to Joginder Singh, the Station Master at Summer Hill station for advising a workable plan. Recommendations of colleagues back at workplace, who had been attending courses at Shimla also, had their share in motivation for this solitary sojourn. With an investment of two rupee on ticket, Indian Railways did allow the pleasure of this legendry ride for half an hour to Tara Devi railway station. Final leg of this would be memorable trip was completed by bus that leaves right at the temple.

Tara Devi Monkey Sanctuary

Located around 12 Km from Shimla is Tara Devi Temple a famous religious attraction. Sitting at atop is this deity whose temple is constructed in graceful ambience. Shyam Lal Sharma, an ardent devotee of the deity enlightened the seeker in me on the history of this temple. The temple was made by Bhependra Sen, the King of Kuanthal Estate, Junga here. Sen had to move his empire from Calcutta to Shimla and was asked by Tara his ‘Kul Devi’ – family deity, to establish her temple. Later, a saint Taradhi Nath visited this place and collectively the name Tara Devi was coined. The sanctum sanctorum here is also the place of Maha Kaali, Maha Laxmi and Maha Saraswati. Sharma is quick to add that this is a rare sight in entire India . Other temples of Tara Devi as Neel Tara being in Calcutta and Ugra Tara in Maharashtra .

Scenic View from Tara Devi Temple


Warm winter sun accentuated this experience and made it more memorable. Pollution free clear warm air energized not only the physical body but also touched upon invisible mystical cords hard to express in words. In the temple a rare scene occurred. An elderly person sat before the deity, made his prayers and suddenly started making noises some of which were uncomprehendable. Seated next to him was another person who asked some questions to him. The first man answers them and offers some rice grains to the second man. As the questioner moves away after getting answers to his questions the security guard there takes his place and takes his turn in questioning. The guard was cautioned that he had not done what he had promised to do as some religious duty which he should have done. The guard apologised for his fault and promised to obey soon. Then the man answering questions distributes rice grains to all present in the sanctum sanctorum. Even the Chief Priest at the temple receives his share of this distribution with due respect to the deity. The exercise comes to an end.



For a temple of ShaktiThe power as it is referred to in the Hindu mythology this may have been a common sight. Shyam Lal Sharma was the man answering questions. In fact he was the ‘medium’ – the person who connects human beings to the deity. When the ‘medium’ answers the questions, it is as if the deity herself is answering. It was a co-incidence that I became witness to this sight and moreover, as a recipient of share of the holy rice grains, like any believer feel blessed.



In another such coincidence it was found that Sundays are the days of ‘Langar’ – the community kitchen. Being recipient of the Prasad that day was another mystical coincidence added to the long standing series. Had it been for any other day of the week, Langar would not have been there, or like fellow participants in the course had I made it to some other place? Such thoughts flooded within and obviously with no certain answers. A distinct feature of the Langar was the protocol followed in serving. Small quantities of rice was being served with different dishes – sweet, kadhi, chana – paneer and rajmah – masoor dal, taking their turns in that order. The staff in service confirmed that this protocol is never breached.


Road to Shiv Temple down hill Tara Devi

Road to Shiv Temple down hill Tara Devi

Downhill Tara Devi in the Tarab Forest , an old Shiva Temple is situated. The path to which is cast in concrete. Small videos shot on Nokia 3110c are hosted with this post which should help facilitating the situation there. Localities informed that a short cut existed from Shiv Temple to Tara Devi railway station. It would be an hour’s walk through the forest on a pedestrian strip spread on the hill. After understanding the broad roadmap on this unexplored hill terrain I ventured out on a lonely, but one of the most memorable walks ever. Sure it shall be a walk down the memory lane for years after.


Notice Board outside Shiv Temple

Shiv Temple Gate

History of Shiv Temple

The ringing bells of Shiv Temple lost their audibility within no time. The pedestrian strip got thinner. Each passing minute brought a new thought that also flew away in no time. What started as a possible award winning Discovery Traveller kind of walk had threads of uncertainty emerging soon. All alone in the forest with steep valley of hundreds of feet on one side and high rise hills on other, I continued to move ahead. Eerie silence of the forest made my own swift breathing sound more resounding. Sound of own lonely footsteps added to the first thoughts of reconsidering the decision within five minutes of the start. It was around 12:45 PM when I discovered that the Atoot Bandhan of Airtel was no more binding me to the rest of the world. Another mobile phone of BSNL was known for its unique feature: Bhagwaan Se Bhi Nahi Lagega, even in normal conditions.


View of Tarab forest

Discovery Traveller was now thinking of the BST (Basic Survival Training) of the armed forces and even worse what if, if I am not able to come out from this forest. I wondered how could have I ventured on such an expedition of treading an unknown path.



View of Tarab forest

I continued my walk on the pedestrian strip assuming that atleast it is a path used by human beings and would to lead to somewhere, if not the railway station. Empty cold drink bottles, torn packets of Kurkure, chips, cigarette packs and even heaps of dung lying on the path offered the reassurance to this thought. It was a realization in itself that even the ability to associate animal dung with the right animal could keep survival instincts alive. And so the walk down the road less travelled continued. It was by now becoming a battle of thoughts within. The reprieve came in form of group of humans coming from the opposite direction. One of the members in that group reassured that I was moving on the right path. Soon after the group became inaudible a water pipe line emerged to add to reassurance. It was later that I realised that there was no other way that could have been followed in that jungle.


View of Tarab forest

Almost halfway the way stood a Hawa Ghar (Rain Shelter), a human construct, as the final reassurance. It is here at this rain shelter a group of boys in late teens or early twenties were enjoying. They asked me the way to Tara Devi temple. From here there were two paths visible and I was in doubt on which path to take. I sought their help in selecting the path but they referred me to a ‘local’ couple which was seated behind the rain shelter. The couple, deeply engrossed in themselves took my question as an intrusion in their privacy, possibly in whose search they had chose to come to this dense forest and spent time in solitude.


View of Tarab forest

Brief examination of the place revealed that there was a highway running on one side of the hill. The other path went down in the jungle. I moved towards the highway assuming that it is the highway leading towards Shimla. Sounds of vehicles moving on the highway were now clearly audible. As I rested on an iron bench the person who explained the broad route map at the Shiv Temple emerged. The rest of the walk to the railway station was completed with this HP Public Works Department employee by my side to chat with. Numerous thanks due to Tara Devi were being offered over a tea, this guy bought at a highway shop outside Tara Devi railway station.



(Photos shot on my Nokia 3110C)

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